Cover crops have been used to improve soil and the yield of subsequent crops since antiquity. Chinese manuscripts indicate that the use of green manures is probably more than 3,000 years old. Green manures were also commonly used in ancient Greece and Rome. Today, there is a renewed interest in cover crops, and they are becoming important parts of many farmers’ cropping systems.
Three different terms are used to describe crops grown specifically to help maintain soil fertility and productivity instead of for harvesting: green manures, cover crops, and catch crops. The terms are sometimes used interchangeably and are best thought of from the grower’s perspective. A green manure crop is usually grown to help maintain soil organic matter and increase nitrogen availability. A cover crop is grown mainly to prevent soil erosion by covering the ground with living vegetation and living roots that hold on to the soil. This, of course, is related to managing soil organic matter, because the topsoil lost during erosion contains the most organic matter of any soil layer. A catch crop is grown to retrieve available nutrients still in the soil following an economic crop and prevents nutrient leaching over the winter.
Sometimes which term to use is confusing. We usually have more than one goal when we plant these crops during or after our main crop, and plants grown for one of these purposes may also accomplish the other two goals. The question of which term to use is not really important, so in our discussion below, the term cover crop will be used.
Cover crops are usually killed on the surface or incorporated into the soil before they mature. (This is the origin of the term green manure.) Since annual cover crop residues are usually low in lignin content and high in nitrogen, they decompose rapidly in the soil.
Where no kind of manure is to be had, I think the cultivation of lupines will be found the readiest and best substitute. If they are sown about the middle of September in a poor soil, and then plowed in, they will answer as well as the best manure.
—COLUMELLA, 1ST CENTURY, ROME
Table of Contents
- About the Authors
- Preface
- Introduction
- Healthy Soils
- Organic Matter: What It Is and Why It's So Important
- Amount of Organic Matter in Soils
- The Living Soil
- Soil Particles, Water, and Air
- Soil Degradation: Erosion, Compaction, and Contamination
- Nutrient Cycles and Flows
- Soil Health, Plant Health, and Pests
- Managing for High Quality Soils: Organic Matter, Soil Physical Condition, Nutrient Availability
- Cover Crops
- Crop Rotations
- Animal Manures for Increasing Organic Matter and Supplying Nutrients
- Making and Using Composts
- Reducing Erosion and Runoff
- Preventing and Lessening Compaction
- Reducing Tillage
- Managing Water: Irrigation and Drainage
- Nutrient Management: An Introduction
- Management of Nitrogen and Phosphorus
- Other Fertility Issues: Nutrients, CEC, Acidity, and Alkalinity
- Getting the Most From Routine Soil Tests
- Taking Soil Samples
- Accuracy of Recommendations Based on Soil Tests
- Sources of Confusion About Soil Tests
- Soil Testing for Nitrogen
- Soil Testing for P
- Testing Soils for Organic Matter
- Interpreting Soil Test Results
- Adjusting a Soil Test Recommendation
- Making Adjustments to Fertilizer Application Rates
- Managing Field Nutrient Variability
- The Basic Cation Saturation Ratio System
- Summary and Sources
- How Good Are Your Soils? Field and Laboratory Evaluation of Soil Health
- Putting It All Together
- Glossary
- Resources