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From Tobacco to Fresh Fruit, North Carolina
Grower Retools to Reap Organic Profits
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John Vollmer (right), who
grows organic strawberries in Bunn, N.C., credits much
of his success with the new venture to Franklin County Extension
Director
Cedric Jones (left).
– Photo by Jim Haskins |
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In the early 1990s, John Vollmer, a third-generation tobacco and
small grain farmer, knew that the outlook for tobacco farming was
bleak. Between cuts in tobacco quotas, cheap imports and increased
regulations, tobacco farming no longer made economic sense. "My
main goal was to keep the farm in the family for the next generation,"
Vollmer said.
For Vollmer and his family, that meant "unhooking" from tobacco production
and being open to new techniques as they kept an eye on the practical aspects
of making a living.
"In 1992," he said, "we looked at strawberries and saw they
were a very good crop." Moreover, Vollmer had seen the number of farms
dwindle in his area from about 250 in the 1970s to just 30. He realized that
organic production might provide a means to keep the farm viable. Finally, after
learning of the Environmental Protection Agency's plan to eliminate methyl bromide
for disease control, Vollmer decided that organic was the way to go.
Heartened by the fact that scientists at North Carolina State University were
focusing on organic production to help make farms more profitable, Vollmer started
asking for help.
"The extension agents would come to the farm and tap on my head lightly,"
he said of their effort to introduce him little by little to the concepts of
organic farming. "They'd leave an article on the counter about how chemicals
might affect earthworms, and eventually it would sink in."
Vollmer strongly recommends that other growers move into the process gently,
and build up the soil through compost and cover crops. "I knew my soils
were in the same condition as everyone else's - basically sand with a little
bit of nutrients and everything burned out. If I was going into organic, I knew
I better put something in."
Vollmer also recommends that farmers thoroughly evaluate what specific equipment
they will need for organic farming. In his case, tools such as plastic mulch
and drip irrigation helped bring about a successful transition. Now, Vollmer
finds organic strawberries easy to grow because the plastic mulch and drip irrigation
help with both weed and insect control: The plastic helps conserve moisture,
keeps soil disease off plants and helps eliminate spider mites. (The plastic
provides a solid layer off which he can use a high-pressure sprayer to bounce
insecticidal soap onto the bottom of the leaves.)
While Vollmer does not farm all his fields organically, he has been so persuaded
by improvements to soil quality, pH and water-holding capacity, that he applies
many of the same techniques, such as compost and cover crops, to his non-organic
fields.
Vollmer finds great success from direct marketing, and does not wholesale any
product. "Every time we wholesale, we get beat up," he said. He and
his family direct market all of their fresh market vegetables and fruits through
five farm stands and at the farm. Bringing people to the farm provides entertainment
for families and a boost in profits for Vollmer. On the farm, he and his family
offer "u-pick" strawberries and sell strawberry ice cream and strawberry
shortcake.
Using a SARE grant, Vollmer investigated how to convert one of his tobacco
greenhouses to grow specialty crops - and now also has a successful lettuce
operation. With the organic lettuce he provides recipe cards - and a ready-made
salad mix of three types. "The SARE grant was wonderful," he said,
"as it allowed me to experiment without too much risk." At first,
he was going to wholesale the lettuce, and then decided to direct market, taking
the lettuce in Ziploc bags to the farm stands.
His lettuce operation offers one other benefit: increased contact with an engaged
public. "I've now had more people coming to the greenhouse to look at what
we're doing," said Vollmer, who thoroughly enjoys this part of farming.
"People who come out to visit know it's important to think in sustainable
ways, and they want to talk with me. I like the process of sharing what I'm
doing."
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