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Farm Feature: A Toast to Ecological Grape
Production
Uses
cover crops to enhance beneficials and restrain plant vigor
Manages
riparian vegetation to reduce pests
Matches
flowers to resource needs of beneficials
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California vintners seed
mixtures of Blando brome grass, Zorro fescue and crimson and
rose clovers to prevent erosion, regulate vine growth and attract
beneficial insects. Photo by Zach Berkowitz |
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Few wine drinkers are in the market for Cabernet Sauvignon with
hints of asparagus or green pepper — herbaceous or “green”
characters prompted by overly vigorous vines. Fewer still want utterly
tasteless wines that have been drained of their flavors by spider
mites.
In the vineyards of California’s North Coast, consultant
Zach Berkowitz’s clients know that their wines will inevitably
tell the tale of how their grapes were grown. During his three decades
of advising grape growers, Berkowitz has learned that some pest
management methods favor flavor while others put it at risk.
Berkowitz, who calls himself a “first-generation farmer,”
earned a degree in plant science from the University of California-Davis
in 1980. Long committed to sustainable production, he says what
he learned there about integrated pest management “immediately
struck a chord.” Now working with 10 or more growers and 1,500
or more acres — mostly in Napa and Sonoma counties —
he tries to encourage beneficial organisms to keep production systems
in balance while he manages for superior wine quality.
Start with cover crops
At the very least, Berkowitz says all grape growers can sow a no-till
cover crop in the highly trafficked “avenues” surrounding
their vineyards. “If those areas are seeded and mowed, that
helps keep down dust, which helps keep down mites.”
He also advises his clients to plant either annual or perennial
cover crops in their vineyard rows — preferably between mid-September
and mid-October. For vineyards whose soil is shallow or whose vines
aren’t strong, he recommends an annual mix of ‘Zorro’
fescue, ‘Blando’ brome and clovers. For those on flatter
ground and with stronger vines, he prefers blends of such native
perennial grasses as California brome, meadow barley and blue wildrye.
By curbing the vines’ excessive vigor, these cover crops
boost the grapes’ appeal to wine drinkers and diminish their
palatability to western grape leafhoppers. Berkowitz suspects that
cover crops — especially “insectary” blends of
flowering plants — also intensify populations of spiders,
lacewings and other natural enemies of leafhoppers, thrips and mites.
“It’s kind of a subtle effect, but I think that over
time the advantage increases,” says Berkowitz. “You
get that natural balance happening and it seems like your pest problems
decrease.”
Densely forested creeks surround many North Coast vineyards. “We’re
not cultivating fenceline to fenceline; we’re striving to
avoid monoculture,” Berkowitz says. There’s “reason
to believe” this additional biodiversity contributes to pest
control, he says, but more research would help.
Patience pays
Berkowitz says he likes to “preach patience,” especially
in managing fall-planted annual cover-crop mixes. “People
want to mow it so it looks nice and tidy, but it’s best to
just let it go to seed,” he says. By delaying mowing until
April or May, growers can watch their thick layer of thatch turn
golden brown in summer, then germinate naturally with the fall rains.
He makes an exception if the annual cover crop is infested with
tall-growing mustards or other “junky resident weeds.”
Then, growers should mow first in January or February before those
weeds set seed, setting their blades high enough to safely clear
the crop. Repeated over several years, this process eventually creates
the right conditions for the cover crop to dominate and the weeds
to “kind of go away.”
By late spring, when his clients mow their perennial grass-legume
mixes, those cover crops have also served as alternate hosts for
natural enemies. Berkowitz’s experience indicates that, in
the long term, even grass cover crops trim populations of leafhoppers,
though not necessarily below economic thresholds.
Sow and mow strategically
Some growers like to cultivate every other row of their cover crops
in early April and mow the rows in between. Then, they disk the
mowed rows in May. To Berkowitz, that’s better for pest management
than mowing too early and almost as good as allowing the covers
to go entirely to seed.
Other growers — not ready for a solid floor of no-till cover
crops — don’t plant those alternate rows to begin with.
Instead, they simply sow every other row. Berkowitz endorses that
practice for sites where soils aren’t rich or deep and vines
aren’t overly vigorous. “It gives producers a little
bit of a compromise and over time they can go to complete no-till.”
Berkowitz cautions growers not to overfertilize insectary blends,
whose energy should go towards flowering rather than towards vegetative
growth, and he advises against fertilizing grass-legume mixtures
at all, since the legumes will eventually help supply nitrogen.
He supports fertilizing solely when growers of grass-only covers
want “quick, thick” stands for erosion control.
Manage flexibly and responsively
On the rare occasions that leafhoppers or thrips exceed economic
thresholds in his clients’ vineyards, Berkowitz recommends
insecticides. “We try to use systems that control pests without
chemicals, but sometimes you’re just stuck.”
That’s often the case with Pierce’s disease, whose
damage can force frequent replanting. Berkowitz says insecticide
treatment for the blue-green sharpshooter during the first hot spells
can regulate this vector’s early movement into vineyards.
Another approach showing “some merit” is riparian vegetation
management: replacing host plants with non-hosts. This reduces the
sharpshooter’s populations while broadening diversity. “Today
we try to manage the vector, but someday we hope to be able to control
the disease itself,” he says.
Over the years, Berkowitz has learned not to include ‘Berber’
orchard grass or annual ryegrass in cover crop mixtures because
they’re simply too competitive with grapevines. He has also
observed that using sulfur to organically control powdery mildew
kills predaceous beneficial mites faster than its kills prey mites.
“You think you’re doing a good thing by dusting with
sulfur, but at the end of the season you wind up with these mite
problems.” In vineyards where this has occurred, Berkowitz
advises producers to substitute non-sulfur controls like biofungicides
after early-spring treatments with sulfur. He has watched that strategy
“really help” in repeatedly mite-infested vineyards.
“It’s a systems approach,” says Berkowitz. “That’s
what makes sustainable agriculture interesting to me: everything
is connected.”
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